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In this case, the problem keys all appeared when testing line 18 (of 19) on the large connector. Recheck that line to verify that all of the problem keys appear when jumpered with different lines on the other connector. When you do see one or more of our problem keys appear during this test, mark down the number of the hooked pin that it appeared on. But then is could be our entire problem too. It may not be a problem, but a ground line for the assembly.
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If any of the lines produce no reaction at all when jumped Note that line. If they all pass but none of your bad keys appear to be pressed, test again then reverse your wire and test the other connector the same way. Continue with each pin of the suspect connector. Proceed to move the hook to pin number 2 and retest. This way we avoid shorting out the Cap Lock LED. If it turns on the Caps Lock key, touch that pin again to turn it off. If you see any flashes at all, that line on the hooked connector is good. Pay particular attention to the failed keys. Now carefully drag the other wire across each side of the other connectors pins, watching for flashes in the Screen Keyboard.
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Too tight, we'll straigten the wire and have to fix it again. Using one hand, hook the hooked end of the jumper onto pin one (it should be marked) and hold it reasonably tight. We will use the hook on the suspect connector and use the other to test it. If the failed keys had been across the keyboard, we'd look for the bad line on the smaller connector. Since the failing keys are positioned vertically from each other, the failing line will likely be one from the larger connector. A failure here would normally mean the keyboard's a doorstop. If this test is successful, our chances of successfully repairing the keyboard just went through the roof. Using the jumper wire from the previous step, we will test the Keyboard Encoder.